Serve these peppery greens and feta as an appetizer or as an accompaniement to roast lamb or chicken. It’s surprising how the cheese mellows in flavor when it’s warmed.

½ pound feta cheese, sliced ¾ inch thick

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons oregano leaves

¼ to ½ teaspoon crushed red pepper

¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper

¼ teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

2 pounds cooking greens, such as kale, Swiss Chard, or beet greens, stemmed and coarsely chopped

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Assorted olives and crusty bread, for serving

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Cut the feta into large triangles and arrange them in a single layer in a baking dish. In a small bowl, combine 2 tablespoons of the olive oil with oregano, crushed red pepper, lemon zest and half of the garlic slices. Spread the marinade all over the feta cheese and let stand for at least 5 minutes or up to an hour.

In a large, deep skillet, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil until shimmering. Add the remaining garlic and cook over moderate heat, stirring until pale golden, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the greens, a handful at a time, and cook, stirring until tender, about 4 minutes. Pour off any liquid, season with salt and pepper and keep warm.

Bake feta for about 5 minutes, or until heated through. Spoon the greens onto 4 plates and add the feta. Olives and bread. Drizzle any feta juices over the bread and serve immediately.